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    06 February

    喀什——老城岁月

    下一站是永远的喀什老城!

    喀什老城是一组老照片,在岁月的反复洗涤中沉淀出万种风情!恰萨巷,阿热亚路,东巴扎……狭长的街巷交织在一起,拼成一幅完整的老城印象。金色的烤馕,香气四溢的烤肉,饱满欲滴的水果,青翠、艳红、橙黄,堆成一簇簇诱人的色彩,等着奉献给你忍不住贪婪的胃口。独一无二的无花果将成为毕生的想念,因为离开喀什以后,你再也无处找寻了。赶快接过一片无花果的叶子吧,托起圆润芬芳又甘甜的果实,边走边吃边看,路旁偶尔半开的两扇木门里,说不定还藏着另一番洞天。造型别致的小楼,浓郁民族风情的装饰,生机勃勃的花花草草,硕果犹存的葡萄架下,几张沧桑而友善的笑脸,就是整洁宁静的民居了。再往前走,又仿佛跌进了时光的漩涡,整整一条街的手工作坊,叮叮当当的声音从几个世纪以前一直响到今天。清脆的是敲打金银铜器,沉闷的是制作民族花帽,悦耳的管弦声里,冬不拉,热瓦甫,艾捷克,独他尔,久负盛名的乐器正在匠人灵巧的手中诞生,兴致勃勃的店主也许还会即兴弹奏一曲我们新疆好地方。新疆各地的手工艺品仿佛一下子全都陈列到你面前,睁大眼睛千挑万选吧,因为行囊再大,也装不完整个喀什的风情。天真活泼的孩子们会从后面追上来,调皮地望着你笑,和你同行,带你走他们每天走的路,用不太标准的普通话问许许多多天真的问题,然后以各种表情各种姿势,给你的镜头留下一组最丰富的记忆。而曲折幽深的街巷里,著名的喀什美女还在等待与你不期而遇。倚门边的含羞眺望,小窗下的捻针刺绣,窄巷里的擦肩而过,高鼻深目,眼波流转,身形窈窕的美女在每一个蓦然回首令人无数次惊艳,爱情故事也许从未停止过上演,让老城永远流露着温情脉脉的气息。

    骑一辆自行车,我在喀什老城里穿行,一袭维吾尔女子的盛装衣我以无限喜悦,赭红色绣花长衫,有一小朵一小朵盛开的雏菊,似乎还散发着野地里的芬芳。风吹起我鲜艳的裙裾,老城温暖的夕阳,仿佛正照着我回家的路。

    我遇到过一群孩子,教他们念我的名字,在咿咿呀呀的童声里我大笑不止,然后指挥他们集体合影留念;在恰萨巷,在阿热亚路,在不知名的巷陌,我吃过新鲜出炉的烤馕,向师傅学着弹奏过美丽的热瓦甫,在推开的门后和维族老人聊过天,还邂逅过真正的喀什美女,从半掩的窗纱里露出蒙娜丽莎式的微笑……

    最后我爬上一座残败的角楼,在楼顶,在夕阳下,着看一群群鸽子飞向天空!

    假如岁月可以这样简单纯粹,真的好想就在这里慢慢终老。

    Comments (1)

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    雅娟wrote:
    简洁\朴实的语言描述真实美丽的喀什,别有风味
    12 Feb.

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